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Handi's Workshop
Showing posts with label Woodworking. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Woodworking. Show all posts

Saturday, January 2, 2016

Storing Pipe Clamps.

Storing Pip Clamps Woodsmith Tips found ==> Here

Crosscut Sled for Small Parts

Many of my woodworking projects require small parts. The challenge there is cutting the parts accurately and safely. I designed the crosscut sled shown in the photo below to be an easy solution to the problem.

Crosscut Sled Photo
The thing that separates this from other crosscut sleds is the addition of a piece of T-track in the base. The T-track holds a combination stop block and hold-down. The stop block guarantees the parts are cut identically and the hold-down prevents them from moving.
Crosscut Sled Illustration
I like the sled so much I’ve even made a couple others with angled fences. These allow me to cut small mitered parts for segmented turnings.
- See more at: http://www.woodsmithtips.com/2011/12/01/crosscut-sled-for-small-parts/?utm_source=WoodsmithTips&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=5361#sthash.UWgeO4YM.dpuf

Thursday, December 10, 2015

Multipurpose Layout Tool

I like to think of a craft knife as an all-in-one cutting tool. That’s because there are so many types of interchangeable blades available (photo at below).
craft knife
You can use it with a standard blade as a marking knife or switch to a thicker blade for carving and cleaning out the waste of a hinge mortise. And like a utility knife, the blades can be thrown out when they get dull. Just keep in mind that the blades are beveled on both faces.
The knife handles and blades can be purchased individually or in a set (as shown). You can find them at most craft and hobby stores.

Simple Jig Saw Tip

Simple Jig Saw Tip ==> Here

Wednesday, December 9, 2015

Top Mortise Tips

An easy way to cut mortises is by drilling a series of overlapping holes at the drill press. Then you can use a chisel to remove the ridges on the sides and ends.
The drawings below show how to guide the chisel to pare away the waste. This technique leaves smooth walls for a better-fitting mortise and a flat glue surface.
Illustrations
I start with a wide chisel on the sides. A wide blade helps keep the surface smooth, with no “steps” between cuts. Take thin shavings, starting at the tips of the ridges and move back until the wall of the mortise is smooth. By controlling the downward pressure with your dominant hand and using your opposite hand to direct the blade, you’ll quickly get a feel for it. Pivoting the chisel allows you to make fine paring cuts for a smooth wall.
With the sides cleaned up, switch to a chisel that matches the width of the mortise to square the ends.
- See more at: http://www.woodsmithtips.com/2011/09/01/top-mortise-tips/?utm_source=WoodsmithTips&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=5085#sthash.hKvdx0kP.dpuf

Clamping Molding

Clamping Molding ==> Here

Tuesday, November 15, 2011

Facebook

To all my Woodworking Followers,

I have been lacking on Updating my Blog for sometime.  I'm finding that time is getting more away from me then usual.  Money is becoming a Problem, which also means the projects aren't coming out cause of the money problems.  So this means no Content to post on the Blog which really Kind of Stinks.

Althou since I'm more on Facebook then anywhere else, I've created me a Workshop Page on Facebook and I've been updating that more and more cause it requires less effort then it does the Blog.  So come on over and check it out, I provide Pictures of some of my Old and Present Projects which aren't many, but they are there.

If you click on the Link above, it will take you right to my Facebook Page for my Workshop.  Once again Sorry for the Lack of Updating my Blog.  Come "Like" My Workshop Facebook Page and your sure to get some kind of update by Tips from Woodsmith and Some Other Woodworking Articals, I also have some Contributing Authors for some Magizines that are friends.

Handi

Sunday, November 22, 2009

2 More Sites Added

I've just added 2 more Sites that I've been keeping track of, I hope they are as Informative to you as they are to me.

The First one is:

Woodworking Seminars -- www.woodworkingseminars.com This has site has some Great Seminars on woodworking, From tips to Jigs for your table saw and more, Check it out.

The Second one is:

Woodworking Online -- www.woodworkingonline.com I'm sure alot of you have already checked this site out or already know about it, the site has Woodsmith and Shopnotes and Woodnet.net all accessible from this site and if I'm not mistaken, Woodworking Seminars is also part of this.

Hope these 2 come in use and informative to others that may not know about these, they are listed in my Blogs I follow, to let you know when a new Post is available along with my woodworking links at the bottom of my blog.

Once again, if anyone else that follows my blog has some educational blogs/sites, tips/hints blog/sites, please contact me with the links and I'll be happy to add these to my blog so it will be easier to goto them as you visit my blog.

Thanks,
Handi

Tuesday, November 17, 2009

3 More Sites Added

I have added 3 more sites to my List for all to enjoy, they are listed as followed.

The Sharpening Blog -- http://hocktools.wordpress.com/

Martin J. Donnelly Antique Tools -- http://www.mjdtools.com/

HOCK TOOLS -- http://www.hocktools.com/

If anyone has any Great Woodworking and or Scroll Saw Sites they would like to see added to my list for future enjoyment, Please, don't hesitate to Contact me or simply leave a comment with the desired Site and I'll be sure to add the sites to my list.

Thanks,
Handi

Monday, October 26, 2009

Episode 002 - Audio Podcast on Tater Bin!

Welcome Everyone,
This is just a Small under 5 Minute Audio Podcast, giving you a brief Detail about the Tater Bin that's in my Future Project to build for a Friend of mine. Just Small Details, Sorry about no Visuals just yet, as soon I get out to my Shop, I'll be taking some Pictures and probably doing a little Audio Podcast along with the Pictures to show my progress work. So if you are interested in tagging along with me on my journey you are more then welcome to do so, I hope that You will shower me with comments, tips and Hints that might help me out in my journey.
Handi

Wednesday, October 21, 2009

Woodworking Tip of The Week - Simple Flush Trim Fence

The easiest way to trim edging applied to a plywood panel is to use a flush-trim bit in the router. With a hand-held router, this can be an awkward and tricky operation. Doing the job on the router table is a much better option.

The only catch is that you still need a way to support and steady the panel as you pass it across the bit standing on edge. My answer to this challenge falls into the quick and simple category.


As shown in the drawings, I make a flush-trim fence by temporarily attaching several strips of hardboard to the router table fence with carpet tape. The bit is then aligned with the surface of the hardboard strips. This arrangement provides plenty of support as well as the clearance needed to trim the edging flush to the panel.

Wednesday, October 7, 2009

Woodworking Tip of The Week - Adjustable Taper Jig

I recently needed to cut some tapered pieces for a project and didn’t want to invest in a manufactured jig. So I built the simple jig you see in the photo below.

It doesn’t take much material to build the jig. You probably have just about everything you’ll need lying around your shop.
Best of all, it’s accurate and can accommodate a wide variety of workpiece sizes. It also works great for ripping a straight edge on rough lumber.
The base of the jig is a piece of ¾″ plywood with three long slots used to attach an adjustable fence. Each slot is recessed on the bottom so the head of a carriage bolt sits out of the way (see detail A).
An adjustable ½″ plywood fence sits on top of the base. It has slots to match the slots in the base for adjusting the angle of the taper. And four holes in the fence accept ¼″ carriage bolts for the hold-downs.

I made the four hold-downs from 1″-thick hardwood (see detail B). A slot at the top allows you to quickly position and then tighten them down with a wing nut.
To use the taper jig, adjust the fence to the desired taper and lock it in place. Then swing the hold-downs over the workpiece and tighten the wing nuts. Finally, set the rip fence of the table saw so the blade lines up with the edge of the jig. Then simply push the sled along the fence. That’s all it takes to cut perfect tapers everytime.

Wednesday, September 16, 2009

Woodworking Tip of The Week - Outfeed Roller

Ripping long boards or panels on the table saw can be difficultwhen you're working alone. You usually need to find a friend to help you to get the job done safely. A good outfeed support can solve this problem. And you don't need to spend a lot to meet your needs.

The outfeed roller shown in the photo is simple and inexpensive to build. And, as you can see in the drawing, all it takes is some scrap lumber, a short length of PVC pipe, a dowel, and a few screws.

The roller is designed to be clamped firmly to a solid support, like the sawhorse shown in the photo. This way, once it's set up, the outfeed roller stays in securely place, and you won't need to worry about it falling over or shifting out of position.

Have a nice weekend,

Phil Huber
Editor, ShopNotes

Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Woodworking Tip of The Week - Two Tips for Installing Hinges

Installing a door on its hinges can be one of the trickiest parts of building a cabinet. Here are a couple tips I've used in the past to help install a cabinet door with less hassle.

Steel Woodscrews

During the installation process, I often end up putting on and taking off the door a few times. And one added frustration I try to avoid is breaking one of the screws.
So until I'm satisfied with the fit of the door, I only put one screw in each leaf, as shown in the photo. And instead of brass screws, I temporarily substitute steel screws, since they're less likely to break.

Finally, when it's time to add the other screws, I run steel screws in and out of the pilot holes first. This way, the steel screws cut the threads for the brass screws.
Installing Hinges

If a hinge mortise is cut too deep, there may not be enough of a gap between the door and the cabinet. As you can see in the photo at right, a quick fix for this is to add a paper or thin cardboard shim.
A shim also comes in handy if the gap between the door and the cabinet tapers from top to bottom. This time, though, you'll only shim one of the mortises.
Good Woodworking,
Ted Raife
Editor, Woodsmith

Tuesday, September 1, 2009

Woodworking Tip of The Week - Push Block


At first glance, the push block in the photo at right appears to be rather simple. But don’t let its appearance fool you. The right push block not only makes the work safer, it also improves the quality of your work.
One thing I like about the push block shown in the photo is the “high-mounted” comfortable position of the handle. It keeps your fingers well above and away from the spinning saw blade.
Best of all, you don’t sacrifice any control. The forward sweep of the handle lets you place constant downward pressure on the work-piece for a steady, controlled feed into the saw blade.

As you might expect, the body and cleat are going to get chewed up after you pass them overthe blade a number of times. So this push block is designed with replaceable parts. All you need to do is flip the body or cleat over when you need a new edge or simply replace them with new ones. Then you can quickly attach the handle with a screw and get back to work again.


Have a nice weekend,
Phil Huber

Editor, ShopNotes

Tuesday, August 25, 2009

Woodworking Tip of The Week - Edge Trimming Panel Supports

Whenever I use plywood to build a project it usually means having to deal with exposed plywood edges that need to be covered. But you’ll find a few challenges to applying edging and making it look great.

Since I want to be sure the edges are completely covered, I like to start with the edging just a hair wider than the thickness of the plywood. Then once the glue dries, the edging can be trimmed flush. I like to use a hand-held router with a flush trim bit to do this. But the challenge is balancing the router on the edge of the plywood to make a clean cut.

To provide stability to the panels while I routed the edges, I used to clamp two panels on edge with 2x4 scraps between them. But accomplishing this always seemed to take more hands than I had to get everything clamped in place. To make the job easier, I made the panel supports shown in the photo at right.

The supports are easy to build and can be made from scrap pieces of stock. I made mine from 3/4″ plywood.

Each support begins with a long base to provide an area to clamp the support to the workbench. Next, glue up two layers of plywood to create a center divider and attach it upright on the base. This separates the two panels to be trimmed and provides a wide surface for clamping the panels securely in position. Then, to hold the plywood panels in place while I attach the clamps, just add a shorter outside support on either side.

The supports are easy to set up and simple use. All you need to do is align the two supports with one another and then clamp them to your workbench. After slipping a panel between the center divider and each outside support, clamp the panels to the divider at each end, as shown in the drawing below.

Both panels are now securely supported, making it easy to trim the edging flush. Just be sure to rout each panel in a clockwise direction to avoid kickback.
Have a nice weekend,
Phil Huber
Editor, ShopNotes

Tuesday, July 28, 2009

Woodworking Tip of The Week - Revolving Finish Station

First I would like to say that I'm sorry for not posting these tips every week. There has been a week or two that I have forgot.

I am a BIG Gamer, as well as Scroll Sawer and getting into Woodworking, and having so many Hobbies and all, you have to Juggle your time here and there.

I have been Stuck on World of Warcraft which i'm sure some of you woodworkers and scrollers out there are familure with or have even heard of the game it's self. And this is what I have been doing, Spending most of my time on World of Warcraft.

Anyway, Here is the Woodworking Tip of the Week.

One of the biggest challenges in a small shop is having room to apply finish to a project. I needed something that wouldn’t take up much room but would still provide easy access to all sides of the project. The station you see here is the solution.

First, the top sits on a lazy Susan. This allows you to rotate the project and apply finish easily on all sides. Second, the hinges allow you to set the station up and tear it down quickly. And third, it can be set up in a corner of my shop out of the way and without taking up a lot of valuable space.
The base consists of two side panels made from 3/4″ plywood and connected by a hinge. Another hinge connects one side panel assembly to the turntable, which is made up of two plywood disks and the lazy Susan (left drawing).

Then you set the station up, swing the two side panels open. The top will rest on the side panels and fit down onto a dowel pin (drawing above right). The dowel acts as a safety catch to lock the station open and adds stability. When you’re done with the station, all you have to do is lift the top up, fold the panels together, and hang it on a wall hook, as you see in the drawing above.

Have a nice weekend,
Phil Huber
Editor, ShopNotes

Wednesday, July 8, 2009

Woodworking Tip of The Week - Shop-Made Pull

When it’s time to choose drawer or door pulls for a project, there’s an option that’s often overlooked. Rather than buy something off the shelf or order from a catalog, save the cash and make you own pulls.

Shop-made pulls have some neat advantages. I like the fact that you’re not limited to what’s commercially available. When the work stays in the shop, you can better match the style, size, and wood of the pull to the project. You use up some scrap wood and get unique-looking, custom pulls out of the bargain.

So to get you started, here’s the step-by-step process for one great-looking, easy-to-make pull.
The real key to making this “cut-out” pull is doing things in the right order. I started by laying out the pulls on an extra-wide blank and drilling pairs of holes (upper drawing). You’ll get two pulls from each section. After ripping the blank down the center, the cutouts are completed by removing the waste between the holes on the band saw (left lower drawing).

Then, before cutting the individual pulls from the blanks, you’ll want to bevel the sides on the table saw, as shown in the lower right drawing.

Have a nice weekend,

Phil Huber
Editor, ShopNotes