Friday, December 25, 2009
Thursday, December 17, 2009
Friday, December 11, 2009
Thursday, December 10, 2009
Thursday, December 3, 2009
Wednesday, December 2, 2009
The cross is pretty close to 16" Long and about 6" Wide and 1/2" Thick.
Giving real life Situations, it took me close to 3 weeks to finish up, some of that 3 weeks was dreading working on it. Oh don't get me wrong, I love working on my Scroll Saw.
I however don't like scrolling out thicker woods, expecially Plywood because you go threw blades like kids goes threw candy, 1 right after another.
The Glue between the plys just eats the blades up pretty quickly, but that's Ok, cause I got 4 uses out of a Single Blade on this project.
By Triming off 1/4" of the Blade on the bottom and tom of the Blade, you make the Blade 1/2" Shorter. Which gives you a 1/4" on bottom and top that's not worn down, So where the blade was orginaly 5" Long, it's now 4 1/2" Long, But of course this is after you use both ends of the blade before you trim off the ends to give you new areas to work with.
Anyway, This was also cut from 1/2" Baltic Birch Plywood. And with a FD-TC #1 (Flying Dutchman Two Way Cut), I like using them over #3's and #5's.
Thanks for tuning in for another Post and taking a gander at my New Finished project!
Tuesday, December 1, 2009
With that Said, here is the After Picture of my Stanley #4 Iron after I sharpened it, It's quite different then sharpening a Knive. So until I get used to Hand Sharpening without a Jig, I'll have to Purchase or Design my own Sharpening Jig to get the Job done better then what I have.
But this is a Start of a Beautiful Sharp Relationship!
Saturday, November 28, 2009
The First is my Right Shoulder, I have Rotery Cuff Damage, and this stops me from doing some things to a Degree, My Left Elbow has been experiencing some Clicking and Pinching as well, and the fact I'm in a Chair limits my Hand Tool use to Smaller Projects and I didn't know if I wanted to spend all this money on New and or used tools to find out I may not be able to use them that well.
Then I decided to Change that Though into Reality and decided to Purchase some and just make due with what I had and learn how to use them the best I can as accuratly as I can.
So without Further Ado, here is my First Tool I purchased off ebay!
Stanley #H1204 (Handyman)
This is my Journey into Hand Tools, My First 4 Planes I purchased for under $100.00 On eBay, the Smoothing and Blockplane without Shipping cost was only $26.00, The Rabbeting Plane was $11.00, and the Handiman was $29.00.
So I don't think I've done too bad so far into my Journey. I do have a Hand saw a Disston Rip Saw, but I've not received it yet to take pictures of it cause the picture wasn't 100% Great on eBay, so once I get it I'll take a picture and post it also.
Thanks for watching and following along my Woodworking and Scroll Sawing Journey.
Friday, November 27, 2009
Sunday, November 22, 2009
The First one is:
Woodworking Seminars -- www.woodworkingseminars.com This has site has some Great Seminars on woodworking, From tips to Jigs for your table saw and more, Check it out.
The Second one is:
Woodworking Online -- www.woodworkingonline.com I'm sure alot of you have already checked this site out or already know about it, the site has Woodsmith and Shopnotes and Woodnet.net all accessible from this site and if I'm not mistaken, Woodworking Seminars is also part of this.
Hope these 2 come in use and informative to others that may not know about these, they are listed in my Blogs I follow, to let you know when a new Post is available along with my woodworking links at the bottom of my blog.
Once again, if anyone else that follows my blog has some educational blogs/sites, tips/hints blog/sites, please contact me with the links and I'll be happy to add these to my blog so it will be easier to goto them as you visit my blog.
Saturday, November 21, 2009
Wednesday, November 18, 2009
From the looks of it, It looks to be a Useful Resource of machinery of all kinds for some of us woodworkers looking for a good new or used deal!
Anymore Sites are also welcome, Please keep them coming, I'd like to see this as a Resourceful Blog with Many different woodworking and scroll sawing blogs, information and the likes, and everyone can make it happen!
Tuesday, November 17, 2009
The Sharpening Blog -- http://hocktools.wordpress.com/
Martin J. Donnelly Antique Tools -- http://www.mjdtools.com/
HOCK TOOLS -- http://www.hocktools.com/
If anyone has any Great Woodworking and or Scroll Saw Sites they would like to see added to my list for future enjoyment, Please, don't hesitate to Contact me or simply leave a comment with the desired Site and I'll be sure to add the sites to my list.
Saturday, November 14, 2009
Friday, November 13, 2009
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I will perodically be posting Woodsmith Tips along with Woodworking Tips of The Week as long as they keep coming to my Email, so Stick around for some more Great Tips from both Woodsmith and Woodworkingtips.com
Thursday, November 12, 2009
Tuesday, November 10, 2009
Thursday, November 5, 2009
These Patterns or Designs are from one of my Christmas Ornament Scrollsaw Magazines.
Wednesday, November 4, 2009
Here is the Nativity set that I just finished Scrolling out lastnight and finished the Glue up This morning.
It's now sitting and Drying, I did however forget to Glue on the Shepards Hooks before I took the Picture.
This Set is about 6" High, 3" Deep and about 10" long.
The Base is made from Oak Plywood along with the Manger. The Figures and Star are made from Cherry Plywood Donated to me by David Pruett over at The Folding Rule Blog.
I'd like to Thank David for sending me Such Beautiful Plywood and it has Been great to work with and do this project, there are a Few more Projects Underway which will be blogged about in the Near Future.
So thanks for checking in, Hope you like the Nativity Set.
Monday, October 26, 2009
Saturday, October 24, 2009
Wednesday, October 21, 2009
As shown in the drawings, I make a flush-trim fence by temporarily attaching several strips of hardboard to the router table fence with carpet tape. The bit is then aligned with the surface of the hardboard strips. This arrangement provides plenty of support as well as the clearance needed to trim the edging flush to the panel.
Wednesday, October 7, 2009
I'd like to apologize for the Infrequent Post of the Woodworking Tip of The Week. I have been experiencing some Computer Problems on my Laptop, which I have just worked out earlier this week.
I had to reformat my Hard Drive and Reinstall Windows Vista and all the Programs on my computer, I was experiencing Lock ups, Internet Delays and some other things, I've tried just about everything to fix them with some programs tried fixing with the Restore disk to fix errors but nothing.
So I had to Result back to about a 4 hr process with formatting, copying and installing. Quite a process, but had to be done.
Anyway, I should have the Tips on time every Tuesday now that my computer is back up and running right again.
It doesn’t take much material to build the jig. You probably have just about everything you’ll need lying around your shop.
Best of all, it’s accurate and can accommodate a wide variety of workpiece sizes. It also works great for ripping a straight edge on rough lumber.
The base of the jig is a piece of ¾″ plywood with three long slots used to attach an adjustable fence. Each slot is recessed on the bottom so the head of a carriage bolt sits out of the way (see detail A).
An adjustable ½″ plywood fence sits on top of the base. It has slots to match the slots in the base for adjusting the angle of the taper. And four holes in the fence accept ¼″ carriage bolts for the hold-downs.
I made the four hold-downs from 1″-thick hardwood (see detail B). A slot at the top allows you to quickly position and then tighten them down with a wing nut.
To use the taper jig, adjust the fence to the desired taper and lock it in place. Then swing the hold-downs over the workpiece and tighten the wing nuts. Finally, set the rip fence of the table saw so the blade lines up with the edge of the jig. Then simply push the sled along the fence. That’s all it takes to cut perfect tapers everytime.
Wednesday, September 16, 2009
The outfeed roller shown in the photo is simple and inexpensive to build. And, as you can see in the drawing, all it takes is some scrap lumber, a short length of PVC pipe, a dowel, and a few screws.
The roller is designed to be clamped firmly to a solid support, like the sawhorse shown in the photo. This way, once it's set up, the outfeed roller stays in securely place, and you won't need to worry about it falling over or shifting out of position.
Have a nice weekend,
Tuesday, September 8, 2009
So until I'm satisfied with the fit of the door, I only put one screw in each leaf, as shown in the photo. And instead of brass screws, I temporarily substitute steel screws, since they're less likely to break.
If a hinge mortise is cut too deep, there may not be enough of a gap between the door and the cabinet. As you can see in the photo at right, a quick fix for this is to add a paper or thin cardboard shim.
Tuesday, September 1, 2009
One thing I like about the push block shown in the photo is the “high-mounted” comfortable position of the handle. It keeps your fingers well above and away from the spinning saw blade.
Best of all, you don’t sacrifice any control. The forward sweep of the handle lets you place constant downward pressure on the work-piece for a steady, controlled feed into the saw blade.
Have a nice weekend,
Tuesday, August 25, 2009
Have a nice weekend,
Tuesday, July 28, 2009
Then you set the station up, swing the two side panels open. The top will rest on the side panels and fit down onto a dowel pin (drawing above right). The dowel acts as a safety catch to lock the station open and adds stability. When you’re done with the station, all you have to do is lift the top up, fold the panels together, and hang it on a wall hook, as you see in the drawing above.
Wednesday, July 8, 2009
Shop-made pulls have some neat advantages. I like the fact that you’re not limited to what’s commercially available. When the work stays in the shop, you can better match the style, size, and wood of the pull to the project. You use up some scrap wood and get unique-looking, custom pulls out of the bargain.
So to get you started, here’s the step-by-step process for one great-looking, easy-to-make pull.
The real key to making this “cut-out” pull is doing things in the right order. I started by laying out the pulls on an extra-wide blank and drilling pairs of holes (upper drawing). You’ll get two pulls from each section. After ripping the blank down the center, the cutouts are completed by removing the waste between the holes on the band saw (left lower drawing).
Then, before cutting the individual pulls from the blanks, you’ll want to bevel the sides on the table saw, as shown in the lower right drawing.
Have a nice weekend,
Wednesday, July 1, 2009
The construction is simple and solid. I used 4x4s for the legs and 2x4s for the stretchers. The removable top is cut from 3/4″ plywood.
Thursday, June 18, 2009
Tuesday, June 2, 2009
In some cases, this may be caused by dull knives or working with highly figured woods that are difficult to joint smooth no matter what you do. But most often the problem is the result of the orientation of the grain in the workpiece.
If there’s a V-shaped surface grain present, it’s tempting to look at the face of the workpiece and then feed the board into the jointer with the V-shaped grain pointing away from the knives. But you’ll actually get a better picture of grain direction if you take a look at the edge.
In a similar manner to edge jointing, you’ll want to check out the edge to see if the grain is rising or falling. But this time you’ll want to feed the board into the jointer in the direction that keeps the knives cutting with the grain direction visible on the edge of the board. You’ll find these same principles apply when you use your planer.
Determining grain direction is the best way to get better results with your jointer. The nice thing is it only takes you a few extra seconds, but it’ll save you a lot of sanding time in the long run.
Tuesday, May 19, 2009
The rack works by pinching the saw blade between the loose section of dowel and the fixed block. To hang up a saw, you simply slip it into the kerf from below and then let the saw drop until the dowel grabs it. To remove a saw, you push it up and out of the kerf.
Friday, May 15, 2009
After a day of fence building with the new Dewalt Rapid fire nail gun, most wives will not ask you to fix or build anything else for a very long time.
Tuesday, May 12, 2009
The guides consist of a hardboard base with a fence on top. I use the router and a 1/2″ straight bit to trim the base of the guide.
Now, you can rout along one edge guide then turn the router around and make a return pass to complete the dado.
Tuesday, May 5, 2009
Well I suppose that's ok I guess... I've not really got any good wood nor money to purchase any just yet, and if I did I'm not sure what I would accomplish just yet in the shop.
I do however have a Project planed in the near future, I'm a real big Fan of Billiards, others call it Pool, I call it both. Anyway for anyone that is familiar with Billiards or Pool or any form of it knows that a Pool Cue is the most Important piece of equipment, without it you can't play, of course without a table nor Billiard Balls, you aren't able to play as well.
Well for anyone that is familiar, I have a Mali Pool Cue, Blueish Green Marble in color, and my cause I was using... Well I had it in my trunk, and the zipper seized up on me. So with what little Skills that I have in Woodworking and the likes, I will be applying this to build me a New Pool Cue Case, equipped with a Chalk Holder, probably a little quarter area to hold a roll of quarters like a poker table holds poker chips.
I will of course be doing a Podcast on this project to show everyone the process of me applying my woodworking Skills...
Design is still a little flaky, but once it's worked out it will look great, I'm also thinking about doing some Inlay work, which will be my first ever attempt as well. So be looking Forward to a few projects, in the mean time, Please enjoy my Woodworking Tips of the Week from Various people from "Woodworkingtips.com"
Thanks for stopping by and checking my blog out, I should also in the neat future be providing another video and audio podcast. Time and weather hasn't been on my side lately.
To make the auxiliary table, I started by cutting a piece of ½″ MDF (medium-density fiberboard) that fit on top of my router table. Then I drilled a hole in the center of the MDF for a router bit.
Next I inset a strip of wood into the top to serve as an index pin for spacing the dadoes, see Figure 1. I made sure that the distance between the router bit and the index pin equaled the spacing I needed for my dadoes, then I clamped the top to my router table.
Now cutting evenly spaced dadoes is easy. Simply butt one of the workpieces against the index pin and push it forward with a backer block to cut the first dado. Now just shift the workpiece so the dado you just cut fits over the index pin and cut a second dado. Repeat this process until all the dadoes have been cut, as you can see in Figure 2.
Have a nice weekend,
Online Editor, Woodsmith
Tuesday, April 28, 2009
Making the totes is similar to making the divided box. But there are some things to keep in mind while building them.
You’ll also notice that the rabbets and dadoes for the tote dividers are cut in the front and back pieces, not the sides like in the divided box. And don’t forget to cut notches for the wood handle and the groove for the 1/4″ hardboard bottom.
Thursday, April 23, 2009
The rack is made from common 2x4s. As you can see in the drawing, it's nothing more than three supports connected with two cross rails. The rear cross rail is positioned just behind the tail gate to keep the rack from sliding. I positioned the front rail to clear the wheel wells of the truck.
The detail drawing shows how the supports and rails are fastened together with hex bolts and lock nuts. The heads of the bolts and nuts are counterbored to prevent damage to the sheet stock or the truck.
I also placed washers between the supports and cross rails. This allows me to easily fold the rack and store it out of the way when it's not in use.
Have a great weekend,
As you can see in the drawing at right, there’s not much to this tool rack. You just cut a piece of ¾″ plywood to shape and screw a power strip vertically in the middle of it.
Then to hang it from the ceiling, I drilled two holes in the long end and hung it from a pair of bicycle hooks that were screwed into a cleat attached to the ceiling. This way the power strip/tool rack can be easily removed if I need the extra space for working on a tall project.
Next, I made a couple of shelves and holders for the power tools I use most often at the bench: a sander, drill, and jig saw. All that’s left is to run an extension cord across the ceiling and plug in the outlet strip.
Have a nice weekend,
Thank's to Woodworkingtips.com for the wonderful Tips on a Better Workshop.
Monday, April 6, 2009
The solution to this wall (and tool) abuse turned out to be pretty simple. As you can see in the photo, I added a scrap wood bumper to the caster base of the saw. The bumper extends out from the base to end just beyond the motor. Now I can push the saw up to wall, confident that the bumper will stop its progress before the motor puts another dent in the wall.
Wednesday, April 1, 2009
Getting Started. The first step is to install the slides on the drawers. For convenience, I usually place them on the lower edge of the drawer. Here, I use the slotted horizontal holes to attach the slide. Using these holes allows me to make small adjustments as needed. Then, I assemble the slide so both pieces are attached to the drawer. Now, with the cabinet turned on its back, I put each of the drawers in position, as shown in the photo above. The drawers simply rest on the back of the cabinet.
Mark the Location. Once the drawers are in the proper place, I mark the bottom of each of the slides on the side of the cabinet, using a square. Once that’s complete, I remove the drawers and cut a spacer to the length of the mark for the top drawer.
Using Spacers. After clamping the spacer in position for the top drawer, you can use it to support the slide while you attach it to the cabinet side, as shown in the left photo below. For this, I use the slotted vertical holes.
Now, using the same spacer, you can attach the slide to the opposite side. Once both slides are in place, insert the drawer and test it for a smooth-rolling fit. You can then make small adjustments both horizontally (on the drawer piece) and vertically (on the cabinet piece) to fine-tune the position. Once you’re sure of the placement, you can add a couple of screws in the round holes to fix the position.
Cut the Spacer. The next step is to transfer the mark for the next drawer to your spacer (middle photo). Using that mark, you can cut it to the correct size and repeat the installation process for the rest of the drawer slides.